An ambitious project: Strada Giulia

The difficult history of Via Giulia began in 1508. It was to be a central point in Pope Julius II Della Rovere’s plans, which went well beyond simply building a new road. The pope conferred upon Bramante the charge of completing a giant palace to include all the judiciary and notary courts. In his plans for this vast complex, Julius II aimed to simplify goods traffic, thus making Via Giulia the city’s true commercial centre. He intended to promote a plan for the modernisation of the old, medieval-type organisational structure of the city, with a long-term goal of completely reorganising the state. In early-16th century Rome all the principal public buildings were to be built in an area between Via Papale and the bend in the Tiber, where the new road will be laid. Amongst these are to be included the Apostolic Chambers next to the Church of St. Laurence of Damascus (now the Palazzo della Cancelleria, completed under Julius II), the Mint, in the immediate vicinity of the Church of Saints Celso and Giuliano; the old chancellery palace (now the Palazzo Sforza Cesarini) and the Palace of Tribunals.

From Julius II to Sixtus V in 16th Century Rome

The premise for this was a majestic and audacious idea – an “renovatio Romae” involving both banks of the Tiber, creating a tactical pathway between Via Giulia, the port of Ripa Grande, Via Lungara and the Sisto Bridge. The great impetus towards the development of the southern part of Via Giulia was offered by the Papal Bull issued on January 29th, 1519 by Julius II’s predecessor, Pope Leone X Medici. It was thus established that the future church of San Giovanni (St. John) would become the parish of all the Florentines residing in Rome, as well as being the symbol of the unity between two cities and a new urban economic and power pole comprised of banks, warehouses, workshops and residences for the Tuscan commercial bourgeois and aristocracy.
Julius II’s dream was destined to remain just that – a dream. His utopian presumption to emulate the great Roman emperors, converting building activity into an instrument of political propaganda ended with his death. One might see in this a romantic vein, notwithstanding the fact that the Renaissance was already in full flight. Pope Sixtus V was to completely scupper his predecessor’s plan, focusing his interest on Via Ripetta and Piazza d’Oro where the Church of St. John of the Florentines was to be built.

The Sofas of Via Giulia

As in the other streets of Rome, small 2 to 3 floor buildings typical of the new concept of Roman building were to rise along Via Giulia. It was probably in one of these delightful buildings that Raffaello was to have taken up residence. Unfortunately the painter died before having the chance to set foot in the workshop he had bought between Via Giulia and Via dei Cimatori. This was subsequently modestly substituted with a home for artisans designed by Antonio da Sangallo the younger.
What then remains of Julius II’s initial project...?
The fantastic memory of an imperial idea: blocks of rough travertine marble resembling sofas, the name attributed to them by the Roman population. The sofas of Via Giulia bear testimony to the project that Bramante was to complete under commission from the Pontiff Julius II. He was to have erected the Palace of Tribunals in an area corresponding to that hosting the Church of San Biagio della Pagnotta, restructuring the same to make it part of the new complex.
None of this actually happened and work was interrupted in 1511.

Back to the Present

In his book “The Life of Bramante” Vasari writes “The Pope resolved to gather in one place - Strada Giulia – all of Rome’s offices (to be designed by Bramante) in order to make things more comfortable for the negotiators going about their business, who had until this time been quite put out”.
As well as looking at the delightful shops and doorways, the spectacle that is to be seen on raising ones eyes to view the walls and rooftops of via Giulia is not to be missed. It’s worthwhile starting from the Ponte Sisto end and stopping off for a coffee at Alfredo’s.
This is Via Giulia now - a prestigious and varied historical and artistic excursus that gently accompanies the past, without allowing it to loose itself in the modern oblivion. Times have changed, but its story has not been forgotten: this is the dimension of time that sublimes the senses of each and every visitor here.

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